Free SELF GUIDED PICTURE WALK
The Trail from Pastra to Ayia Varvara beach at Katelios Walk PK1
Distance: 7 Kilometres  (4 miles)
Time: 1½ - 2hrs Easy to Moderate: Depending on route taken, uphill climb to Pastra

Getting There: By car, see parking areas. Taxi to Pastra. Or circular route by foot. 
Provisions: Drinks are necessary. So stock up on water and provisions before commencing. Two or three shops and tavernas in Katelios but only one small shop in Pastra. Seasonal kantinas near Ayia Varbara beach and Mounda Bay.

This is just one of many old pathways around this area, a typical Greek (short cut) down the lofty slopes to Ano Katelios, still used by farmers and shepherds today. The trail is well signposted and follows along the side of the stream from the village of Pastra and the old wash houses to the beach of Ayia Varvara (Barbara) to the left of the village of Kato Katelios. The trail starts behind the washhouses under the bridge then follows the stream that once was a fast flowing river which during Roman times powered 18 waterwheels along its banks. The ruins of these you will be able to see quite clearly on route including the old church of Ayii Anayiri. This updated pathway has a few wooden bridges and safety rails along the way making the pathway less precarious and the course easier, foot holes have been made in part of the terracing to aid you. However, care must be taken in wet weather, in which case slight detours through the olive groves in one or two areas are advisable. The route has a mixture of tracks, footpaths and road sections and can be shortened or extended to suit. Parts of the pathways are slippery after rain.

A: Ask to be dropped of in the village of Pastra by taxi  next to the church of Panayia Gravaliotis. For the easier down hill route.  Opposite the church, the road just off the main tarmac road leads you down a short way to the bridge. This bridge and the continuing road is one of the original roads on the island built in the mid 1800's by the British. This road branches off and continues to descend passing through Alimata to Skala (today's Old Skala) whose houses were destroyed in the 1953 earthquakes, still heaped in ruins today, no building survived except for the belfry of the once large church.

B: The wash houses have now received a face life with freshly painted walls and fencing around the perimeter, this was used as the washing area by the locals. The ladies of the village would make their way here to do their washing, gossip and collect water from the spring, which still runs constantly today and fills the gully at the side of the road, even now irrigating the surrounding land.

C: There is a large area behind the wash house which is a maze of pathways for you to explore before you make your descent downhill on the trail towards Katelios. On the hill above you once stood the ancient city of Pronnoi. This once powerful citadel was very difficult to capture, as the view out to sea would prepare its inhabitants to rally their forces in preparation of any advancing forces. The city's fortifications were huge walls made of blocks of stone known as Cyclopean and difficult to scale. Nearby archaeological evidence even shows this could once have been the elusive city of Odysseus. 

D: This is one of a few wooden bridges made to update this trail, the original footpath took a different course just as the water does today. The direction of its flow and power has moved and shifted over the years due to the many earthquakes the island has suffered over the centuries.

E: To your right is the first and more modern of the water mills you will be seeing on this walk today, its roof and walls well covered in ivy. Take care if looking inside and do not be frightened by but, be aware of anything moving quickly on the ground or in the bushes, it is most likely to be just a small green lizard, but there are snakes on the island so do not go poking around in holes etc. It is more likely that you would frighten them away before they could be seen by you, but if one was asleep in his nice warm bed he might take offence at being disturbed. A little further on and you come to the first serious bridge to be crossed.

F: The next mill on your right is markedly much older than the first and shows you the disastrous signs of the devastation and destruction of an earthquake. 

Note: When we were here there was an old World War 2 helmet found and placed on the pillar - I am sure it will have probably disappeared before the season begins. However it should go without saying -  please leave any item such as this and do not remove it as memorabilia. Thank you.

G: From this point you can clearly see how the water was taken from the then fast flowing river and channelled into the old concrete water channel . This was then taken off in other directions to irrigate the land during the summer months.

H: The church of Ayii Anayiri was built in honour of three men who were all doctors and gave their services free of charge to the poor of the area, the name itself means "without money".

View of bamboo plumes & Zakynthos 

Sea Squill emerging

I: This is the start of the long run of Roman watermills, (when you reach the lower section you will be able to turn around and view another above this one). There were 18 of these amazing water pipes that look just like ' elephant trunks' which connected together to transport water down to power the wheels. What you must remember  as you follow this trail - is that over the centuries the water course and flow has changed dramatically. Once the island had bountiful rivers and streams along with many freshwater springs, however many of these after the 1953 earthquake ceased to flow and changed direction, the precious water being diverted through the disruption underground.

This also has happened over the millennia, but what it does not detract from is the importance of this whole area in Mycenaean times all the way through to the Roman era . 3rd century BC Roman Mosaics have been found in many areas around here with the Roman Villa in Skala being the best known about and preserved. It is thought to have perhaps belonged to the governor of the region or possibly the island. This then must explain why this whole area was one of the most powerful on the island, renowned for its abundant supply of water.

J: This is a lovely area to sit and enjoy a well earned rest for a while or even a picnic. Before the climb up the next slope!

K: This next section shows three watermills  and the top of the ancient 'hose pipe'  the lower mill has some remains of roof tiles which have been all fitted together with concrete caps, used  to release the water when required. This is what remains of the Venetian era, however the water was still then displaced  to small dams which were then controlled by these ingenious contraptions. Also we found here weights, an old lantern and other artifacts. Once again please leave these where you find them. 

L: From this next mill you will be able to see the old walling of the terraces behind, even the old steps built in for ease of access. 

M: In front of you soon you will be able to pick up once again the old concrete water channel. Then across the last remaining bridge, made from metal this time, through the orchards of olive, lemon, orange and walnut trees to Ano Katelios.

N: All that is left within the remains of this old house is the traditional beehive shaped oven. The oven is stuffed with brushwood which is then set alight and the opening closed with a metal sheet or door. When the fire has died down it is raked out and the roast or bread is put inside and left there until cooked.

O: The final watermill and a little further along what was once the most resplendent church of Ayios Andreas. Large and decorative lost forever like most of the island's history. However I hope today you have seen a little more of it than you bargained for, but thoroughly enjoyed yourselves. Below are just a few of the orchids we found in and around the church grounds.

P: Finally the view of Ayia Varvara beach and Katelios shoreline on a February day. The beach is being cleared of its seaweed which washes  up onto the shore and is a problem all over the island in the winter months. The endeavours of the local authority to clear it all away is on going, ready  for you to enjoy your stay on the island.